Diamonds, Gems & Pearls

Quality diamond, gemstone or pearl jewelry can dramatically impact the way an individual looks and feels. Purchasing jewelry can also be a pleasant experience, when you know what you're doing. Here are a few basic concepts to help you feel more confident as you select that perfect piece.

DIAMONDS

Evaluating diamonds can seem extremely complex. A master gemologist's training in diamond appraisal can take years. Still, a few simple concepts can help you to read and understand an appraisal, so that you are confident to compare the quality of stones.

Diamonds are as varied as people are, and choosing or wearing the right diamond can make a unique statement about the person wearing it or the love of the person giving it.

Chances are you won't be shopping for a flawless diamond, as such a thing is extremely rare and expensive. Finding a diamond with no flaws visible to the naked eye, though, is another matter altogether: they are easily available at reasonable prices.

When you begin shopping for a diamond, you will encounter the Four C's, the quality standards for diamonds. Here is a short primer on what each C refers to and how it affects the value of the diamond.

CUT:

Of all a diamond's qualities, cut has the most to do with brilliance; the combination of sparkle and fire. A well-cut diamond maximizes the facets to reflect the most light possible and separates and intensifies the colors of the rainbow. There are three parts to the cut: the crown, the girdle, and the pavilion. Basically the girdle is the widest part of the stone, by which it is held in its setting. The crown is above the girdle and the pavilion is below it. The ratio of depth to width and angle of the facets determine the brilliance.

COLOR:

A diamond's color quality refers to its body color, rather than the rainbow of reflected light. The whiter or more colorless the stone, the more valuable it will be (except for specific "fancy" colored diamonds, which can be extremely rare). Color is very difficult to evaluate, even for trained professionals, because we all perceive color differently, and differences between stones can be very subtle. Yet small differences in color can have a big effect on the price. Color is graded by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) with letters ranging from D (completely colorless) to Z (yellow). The setting can also affect the color, which is why many people today opt for white gold or platinum prongs. But in some instances, yellow gold might better complement the diamond.

CLARITY:

Clarity refers to the flaws in the stone itself. It is evaluated under 10X magnification and graded according to various systems, most often the one developed by the GIA. Almost all diamonds contain slight specks, which serve to uniquely identify each stone. These specks are called "inclusions," a word which refers to anything trapped within the diamond crystal. These inclusions may be dark spots of other minerals, open cavities, or internal cracks or fractures, called feathers. The grading system measures the number and severity of inclusions from flawless or nearly flawless to imperfect, which would indicate the inclusions in the diamond are easily discerned by the naked eye.

CARAT:

Carat refers to the weight of a diamond, though it is typically used to refer also to the size of a "well-cut" stone. One carat weighs 200 milligrams, or one-fifth (.2) of a gram. Stones of less than one carat are often described in terms of points, where each point represents 1/100th or .01 carat. So a 1/2 carat stone would be 50 points. In practice, a fraction of a carat weight represents a small range rather than an exact weight. As the weight of a diamond increases, so does its value and cost. But because larger stones are more rare, price jumps accordingly. A 2-carat diamond will always be more expensive than two 1-carat diamonds of the same quality.

PRECIOUS AND SEMI-PRECIOUS GEMSTONES

Besides diamonds, colored gemstones have always been popular for jewelry. Quality Precious Gemstones; sapphires, rubies, and emeralds (all others are considered semi-precious) are rare in nature, so stones are often enhanced through heat, radiation, oils, or waxes to hide minor blemishes or to enhance the color. These processes are all considered standard practice in the gem business. Some types of beautiful natural semi-precious stone that have not been enhanced can be worth as much as or more per carat than a diamond of comparable quality, and should come with a certificate of authenticity.

In addition to natural, enhanced stones, you can also find synthetic stones, which are created or grown in a lab. Though chemically they are the same as natural stones, synthetic stones can be larger, with better color and fewer blemishes. They are also more affordable, while often only a trained professional can tell the difference.

Each gemstone is described with reference to its Mohs' Hardness Rating, as a value on the Mohs Scale, after the Austrian mineralogist Friedrich Mohs. The hardness rating will indicate the gem's scratch-resistance. A lower number is softer, and lower ranked gems will be scratched by stones with a higher ranking. Diamond is the only mineral that ranks 10.

PEARLS

Pearls have been highly valued for thousands of years. They are formed as an oyster responds to an irritant, such as sand or a parasite. The oyster secretes layers of nacre around the irritant, often for years, ultimately forming a pearl. Pearls in nature take years to develop and are often irregularly shaped. Natural pearls are rare and costly.

Most pearls today are cultured pearls, which are created by placing an irritant in the oyster and stimulating the deposit of nacre. Different types of oysters or freshwater mollusks generate pearls of different size, color and other qualities.

When purchasing pearls, look for sets in which the individual pearls all match. Cultured pearls are rated for five different qualities:

CLEANLINESS:

A pearl with fewer imperfections on its surface is said to be a "cleaner" pearl. All real pearls (natural or cultured) will have some imperfections, but value increases the fewer and less noticeable they are.

COLOR:

Pearls are described as a main color (white, black, or yellow) with an undertone color of pink, rose, or green. Pearls can also be dyed any shade to satisfy your taste.

LUSTER and ORIENT:

Luster refers to the sharpness and intensity of reflections on the pearl's surface, and orient has to do with the spectrum of colors visible within the pearl. Pearls with higher ratings for luster and orient are more valuable.

SHAPE:

The most commonly prized shape is a sphere. Generally, the more perfectly spherical a pearl is, the more valuable it will be. Some symmetrical imperfections can also be desirable, though, like the teardrop pearls sometimes used for earrings and pendants.

SIZE:

Pearls are measured by diameter, in millimeters. The larger the pearl, the higher the price.

JEWELRY CARE AND CLEANING

Wearing fine jewelry can help you to look and feel your best, but sometimes you're better off not wearing your jewelry. For instance, wait to put on your jewelry until after you apply makeup, perfume, and hairspray. Also, remove your jewelry before doing manual work, including gardening and housework, or even going to the hair-stylist. Gems can crack or chip; necklaces, bracelets, and earrings can snag and break; and most salon products and household cleaners contain chemicals which can damage some jewelry.

Jewelry will keep best with regular care and cleaning. Consider taking your jewelry for a professional cleaning, inspection and polishing annually. Not only can you retain the beauty of the piece, but a trained professional can also spot early warning signs of wear or damage. You can and should, however, clean your jewelry more often at home. Avoid ultra-sonic cleaners or ask your jeweler first, as they do damage to some kinds of gemstones. Usually a simple washing is sufficient, but if you use the sink, plug it so you don't lose your jewelry down the drain. Here are some simple guidelines for caring for your jewelry.

Diamonds can seem to lose their luster, and sometimes, in spite of your best attempts to keep it clean, your ring can get a bit of grime buildup. Even if your diamond looks clean, the oil from your skin can dull the shine, which can usually be restored with a simple cleaning. Using a mild solution of water and sudsy ammonia and a soft, non-metal brush, carefully scrub the stone and the setting to remove hard water soap buildup and oil. Dabbing the brush between the prongs can help to clean the back or pavilion of the stone.

Gemstones can generally be cleaned by soaking them in a bowl of warm, soapy water and then softly brushing them as described above. Avoid harsh chemical cleaners and abrasive jewelry cleansers. Check with your jeweler regarding the oils or waxes used on your gem, especially emeralds, and what signs to look for when it needs professional care.

Pearls are very soft and easily damaged. Chemicals and alcohol can cause particular damage, so use only very mild soapy water to clean your pearls. Consider having your pearls professionally re-strung every few years as well. Also, since pearls are easily scratched, take care to keep them protected from your other jewelry.

Your metal mountings may gather grime over time. Again, simple is better. Using a very soft brush and plain old soap and water, gently scrub away the grime. For particularly sticky grime, you might use alcohol, but definitely not on any of your pearl jewelry. Remember that metal can be scratched, so be extra careful. Dry and buff the metal with a soft, clean cloth.

Always store your jewelry on a soft surface and keep the pieces from bumping into or rubbing on each other as this will scratch them and they will soon lose the brightness of their polish. Gemstones can also scratch each other and should be kept from bumping together.

When well cared for, fine jewelry can be enjoyed for generations. May you find much pleasure and contentment from your jewelry.